当罗瑞雷·班德洛维奇最初分享其Listen Bar的理念时,她发现人们对此颇有微词。它是一个充满时尚、社交风格的快闪酒吧,其酒水单上都是清一色的无酒精饮料,由 Dead Rabbit的杰克·麦格里、Seamstress的帕梅拉·韦兹尼泽和Harvard & Stone的阿隆·保尔斯基等天才调酒师精心打造,同时还配备了饮食限制指南。
在去年于威廉斯堡举行了为期5天的快闪之后,Listen Bar都会在每周一举行无酒精之夜,以迎合名为"1月戒酒"（酒客们在假日的纵饮之后试图通过在一个月内远离酒精来找回自我）的活动。但鉴于酒吧在过去数周的热度,班德洛维奇觉得Listen Bar的寿命不应止于1月31日,于是她发起了一场众筹活动,并希望为这一理念找一个永久的家。
A few minutes before seven on a cold Monday night in January,a line forms up the stairs leading to the basement of a bar in Manhattan's East Village.
Inside,the lights are dimmed,bartenders shuffle behind the bar,prepping ingredients for the drink menu,which includes craft cocktails,sparkling rosé and an IPA on tap.But unlike every other bar on the block,patrons of this watering hole could drink all night without getting so much as a buzz: Nothing on the menu contains a drop of alcohol.
When Lorelei Bandrovschi first started sharing her idea for Listen Bar,a pop-up that offers the social atmosphere of a hip lounge with a 100% virgin drink list—crafted by talented bartenders including Jack McGarry of Dead Rabbit,Pamela Wiznitzer of Seamstress,and Aaron Polsky of Harvard & Stone and complete with a guide for dietary restrictions—she found people had some strong opinions.
"Skeptics would say,‘What's next?A restaurant without food?'" she told Fortune.But to her ears,the strength of those responses proved the concept was "striking a chord."
After a five-day pop-up in Williamsburg last year,Listen Bar is hosting booze-free nights every Monday during the phenomenon known as Dry January—when drinkers who indulged freely over the holiday season attempt to reset by taking a month off the sauce.But given the spot's popularity over the past few weeks,Brandrovschi thinks Listen Bar has a life beyond January 31st,so she's started a crowdfunding campaign that she hopes will land her concept a permanent home.
一些精酿厂家,例如Athletic Brewing,仅专注于无酒精啤酒。在Listen Bar提供Athletic精酿的班德洛维奇称,这款饮品口感极佳,很多顾客在最近的聚会上喝了三轮之后才意识到这是一款无酒精啤酒。
2016年,帝亚吉欧集团收购了Seedlip的少数权益,这是全球最大的酒精饮料公司对非酒精产品的首笔投资。帝亚吉欧的产品包括司木露、尊尼获加和唐胡里奥等。自那之后,英国无酒精"杜松子酒替代饮品"Ceder与 Absolut和Jameson等品牌的所有者Pernod Ricard达成销售和营销协议。去年,Stryyk品牌将无酒精朗姆、杜松子酒和伏特加引入英国,同时,一款新的无酒精饮品Caleño也于本月早些时候在英国上市。
She's not the only one to see the potential offering people the trappings of the drinking life—without that pesky alcohol.The hospitality industry at large is catching on;the number of "mocktail" menu items increased by 13% from the first half of 2016 to the same period in 2017,according to Technomic,a market research firm that covers restaurants.And as more spirit and beer companies have jumped on the booze-free bandwagon,those bartenders and mixologists have had many more options to work with.
The growing popularity of Dry January is certainly one of the factors driving interest in alcohol-free options,but industry watchers say there's much more at work.As consumers demand better quality ingredients and more nutrients in products from snacks to sodas,many are rethinking what's in their martini glasses as well.Meanwhile,a cultural interest in wellness and "self care" is prompting some Americans to steer away from the party-centric image that's long been promoted by alcohol makers.Then there's the host of people— from pregnant people to religious abstainers and designated drivers to those concerned about a family history of addiction—who've long had reason to abstain.Marnie Clark,founder of National Mocktail Week,says providing options for those who choose not to partake in hard drinks is "about community and inclusion."
Of course,for companies,it's also about the bottom line.In the beer industry,the move into alcohol free has been fueled by the need to find new sources of revenue: the amount of alcohol consumed in the U.S.has dropped over the last two years—due,in large part,to dwindling beer sales.Heineken launched its alcohol-free beer,Heineken 0.0,in the U.S,this year.Anheuser Busch InBev,maker of Budweiser,announced another alcohol-free beer this month.And the company plans to grow those products to 20% of the company's portfolio by 2025 and even appointed a chief non-alcoholic beverage officer last year.
Some craft breweries,like Athletic Brewing,are focused solely on alcohol-free beers.Bandrovschi,who serves Athletic's IPA at Listen Bar,says the brew is so good that patrons at a recent pop-up drank three rounds before realizing it was non-alcoholic.
Alcohol-free spirits are also finding a growing customer base.Curious Elixirs crowdfunded through Kickstarter in 2016 to get their booze-free craft cocktails to consumers.Since then,founder John Wiseman says,demand "is only speeding up" and the company has seen sales grow nearly 10X year-over-year.
While the U.S.market is still warming to non-alcoholic offerings,the shift in preferences is farther along in Europe,particularly in the U.K.where 4.2 million people planned to participate in Dry January this year,according to a YouGov poll.
Ben Branson,founder of the nonalcoholic spirit brand Seedlip,launched his product in the U.K.in 2015.Billed as "the world's first distilled non-alcoholic spirits brand," Seedlip is now part of a growing category.
"In the last nine months we've seen about 40 new products launch in this space," says Branson.He expects the nonalcoholic offerings will continue to grow and innovate,noting the "incredible energy" he's seeing now within booze-free beverages.
Diageo acquired a minority stake in Seedlip in 2016,the first investment in a nonalcoholic product for the world's largest spirit company and maker of Smirnoff,Johnnie Walker,and Don Julio among others.Since then the U.K.has seen alcohol free ‘alt-gin' Ceder land a distribution and marketing agreement with Pernod Ricard,home of brands like Absolut and Jameson.Last year the Stryyk brand brought booze-free rum,gin,and vodka to consumers in the U.K.and Caleño,a new alcohol free spirit,launched there earlier this month.
"I don't think it matters why someone isn't drinking," Branson said."I think you should be able to get a great grown-up drink,the way you can get great vegetarian food now."
For the Seedlip founder,increased participation in Dry January and it's counterparts like Sober October,Dry July in Australia,and Tournée Minérale (Dry February) in Belgium are an indication of a major shift in the way people think about their relationship to alcohol.
"I'm not sure that these months will necessarily exist in 10 years' time," he said."There are bigger cultural forces at work,health and wellness being a huge one."
Young people today have more information than the generations before them about how what they consume affects their bodies.They're drinking less and seeking out alternatives.
As the energetic crowd packs into booths with their $11 alcohol-free cocktails below,Bandrovschi explains that the theme for the evening is "self care is the new rock and roll."
"To me punk rock and rock and roll is about going against the grain and doing what feels right for you," she said."To be in that place where you choose to go out without drinking is that punk rock act of choosing yourself."